No Puedo Quitar El Gripe

I know it's been a while since I've posted last.  It's always tough to find the necessary time to sit down and do this, among the all the other things I need to do on my "days off".  Following the sang, 'a pictures worth a thousand words', I'm going to really try and write less, and just let you look at the photos.

Now I'm well into Central America, and have had the excitement of crossing a few borders, and experiencing some of the differences of the countries.  I've been in San Salvador the past few days, and am getting back on the road tomorrow.  I still have been battling illness, and it is plaguing my trip - pun not intended. 

Leaving Cozumel and getting back onto the mainland was great.  I had a tailwind for good stretches, with more flat, smooth roads (oh how I miss them...).  In just a few days I was at the border of Belize, and was really excited.  Besides Canada and Mexico, I had never been to another country before, and now this was a new one on the list.  The first thing I noticed about Belize, is that they speak English, the next was there are so many black people (there are virtually none in Mexico).  Lots of people speak Creole, and almost everyone has a creole accent when I spoke to them.  It was very confusing because I didn't know if I should speak Spanish or English.  Everyone was real friendly, and as usual I had lots of curious people asking me about my trip.

I had planned on only staying a night in Belize City, and moving on, but with some convincing from my mom, I took a boat out to one of the islands, Caye Caulker, to do some diving.  I stayed there a few days, and dove the infamous "Blue Hole", which was incredible.  It was a three tank dive, but the first we did the blue hole.  After descending 40ft to the bottom, we kicked a bit until the real drop off, and descended all the way to 130ft.  At this depth we could only spend about 10 minutes, but in the short time I saw massive bull and reef sharks swimming along.  As we swam through the "stalagmites", I could look over and see the sharks slowly swimming along, in the dim light.  With no other fish or marine life, and lack of adequate life, it had an eerie feel to it, and was awesome.  The second dive I saw three eagle rays flying along a wall, I tried to get a picture of them, but they didn't come out...

I woke up one day on the island, with a terrible sore throat (but nothing else).  Little did I know, that from that moment, I would feel sick (with a slight sore throat, and malaise/fatigue), for the next few weeks.  This led me to believe that I probably have contracted mononucleosis.

Back on the mainland, I was racing from the city trying to avoid the hurricane that was supposed to hit the coast in a couple days.  When I reached the border of Guatemala, I still wasn't feeling real well to ride.  I stopped for water at a purifcadora, and a young man there tells me how dangerous it is to be riding on the roads.  Especially after a microbus was just robbe a few days previous on the same road in between there and Tikal (while I stayed with them, another one was robbed).  He offers some space out front to camp.  After camping a night at there (they also have a  local radio station) in Melchor, the mother of the family, Rut, mentioned, as I began to pack my things, that I could stay if I wasn't feeling well.  I ended up staying four days, camping on their front lawn.  Even though I was sick, and not feeling great, it seemed like we all really connected, and at the end it seemed like it was difficult for all of us to say goodbye.

Riding towards Flores, I was curious if I might get robbed, but fortunately nothing happened.  I camped a night near the lake, then stayed on the island of Flores.  I took a microbus to the ruins of Tikal.  What an incredible experience, and amazing how much better the ruins were than in Palenque.  I saw howler monkeys, Tucans, and much more intricate ruins.

Before leaving the hostel on the island, I met a young woman that works there.  While we were talking, it somehow came up that both her parents were killed three years ago.  She has three little brothers that she basically takes care of, and works a ton.  She's also trying to finish school at the same time.  Riding along that day I had this knot in my gut thinking about her situation, and how difficult it must be.

Riding from Flores, I continued to have lots of heat, rain in the evenings (much more common), and had to deal with some bad roads again.  Climbing into the mountains, I crossed into El Salvador, and had loads of hills to climb until descending a big one (after ascending it of course) after Santa Ana, towards Sonsonate.  Within about a week, I was on the coast. I camped at one of the first points on the stretch of coast West of La Libertad called Mizata.  I hung out there a day, then made my way around the very windy, up and down coast to El Zonte.  There I spent a few days, trying to wait for more swell, that showed up, but was still real nasty.

I finally left and made my way up the long hill from La Libertad to San Salvador, where I met up with a the couchsurfer Andre that I was supposed to stay with.  Right off the bat I noticed how incredibly helpful he was.  First he met me at the gas station at the top of the hill with his truck, to pick me up because it is confusing to find his house.  Then the next day he drove me around to do errands that I needed: go to the post office, grocery store, buy new strings for my guitar, go to the bike shop to check my chain and headset, etc.  He always seems willing and motivated to help me.  I can't thank him enough.

After a few days of getting errands done, mixed with a bit of relaxing, I'm getting back on the road (a little unwillingly, it's always tough to get myself out on the bike when I've got a kitchen, shower, bed, TV, etc).  Still I'm excited to see the other countries, and looking forward to doing more surfing in Nicaragua.




Some Thoughts While Riding:

Traveling from country to country, things have been changing rapidly, like the currency.  It starts to get confusing trying to remember what things are worth.

There's a company BTL that blocks Skype in Belize.

I learned about the Zapatistas, and the war in Chiapas, Mexico, after I had already passed through there.  Maybe that's why it seemed like there was a definite more negative vibe as I passed through the towns (although I still met lots of great people).

It's great being able to speak a little Spanish and notice the subtle differences in the countries.  In Guatemala, they say boss and calidad a lot.  There are things I really like, like in El Salvador, they say recto, for straight, instead of derecho in Mexico (much better because derecha is right, and sounds to close to derecho)

There have been lots of times when I stop for water, and people give me a few liters.  They could charge me, but when I ask the cost, they just tell me "nada".  Then wish me a goo trip.

I remember a while ago, hearing from several people "I wish I could ride my bike everyday".  Somehow implying that I'm lucky, that it's all fun and games.  These people have no idea what I've sacrificed, and what I have to deal with.  These are the kind of people that would quit within the first week.

It amazes me how quickly I get accustomed to places I stay and certain situations.  I've become very adaptable.  A great example was in El Zonte taking a shower outside among the plants.  At first I laughed at how ridiculous it seemed, then it just became normal after a day or two.

I realized that I don't really carry my guitar for just me to play.  I carry my guitar for others to play.  There have been quite a few times (once recently) that people tell me how they haven't played in so long.  I can see the satisfaction playing gives them.  It's a great feeling knowing that I can help them in some way, and enhance their life.

Riding in some places, with the smog so bad, and with so many diesels, that I will actually get black boogers in my nose.


Kilometers ridden so far: 14, 908.3

Special Delivery

I continue to have serious problems with the mail system of Latin America.  I suppose because I don't entirely understand it.

My Uncle Don sent me a package of "just the essentials" as he described it: a chain, bike tubes, chain oil, but really important were the cotter pins for my trailer that connect to my bike.  I have been dealing with serious rattling noise since Guadalajara, whenever I hit a bump.  I was hoping the new pins would solve the problem (I've been using replicates made from spokes that my friend Bernardo made for me in GDL).

I should have put my friend Andre's name on the package, because when the mailman tried to deliver the package, he asked for ID, and I hadn't arrived yet.  Because the package was sent express, they only hold onto it for 7 days, and when I arrived a couple days later and went to the post office to get it; they told me it was already resent back to the sender.

Thanks anyway Don!

Media

Leaving Ken's place in Mérida

I was surprised to see how developed Cozumel is

Back to the mainland

So incredible how clear the water is... and warm

After fighting headwinds through most of the Yucatan.  Nice to arrive and to see starting the day I would have a strong tailwind going South.

Salbutas.  I was taking a break, bought some water here.  The nice fellow pictured, gave me some Salbutas to try (food of the Yucatan/Quintaa Roo area)

First time having an actual (functioning) tent to sleep in again, wow the good life.  I was actually excited and looking forward to camping, while riding earlier in the day.  Thanks Peter.

As I cooked dinner, Lupe brought me a potatoe dish to try with homemade tostadas. Tasty

My dinner companion

Pancakes, good fuel for a day of riding

Lupe and Santiago, proud new owners of an OSS tent.  When I stopped to ask them about camping off the side road just ahead, she immediately mentioned I could camp on their property.  They even have a grassy area that they keep fed with water because they get so many traveling cyclists passing through, that end up camping at their place.

New gloves, SO much more enjoyable to ride with.  Thanks Mom.

This is the third time I met up with Rodrigo (to the right).  I met him orginally in Michoacan, Mexico, saw him again in San Cristobal, then here riding towards Belize.

It never ceases to amaze me how helpful most of the people I come across.  I stopped here after an exceptionally long day to get to Lake Bacalar, in order to try and have my last night in Mexico extra special.  I stopped for something to eat, we started talking and I was mentioning how I was looking for somewhere to camp (it was already dark).  The woman on the right mentioned they have a community building/area, right next to the lake, that I could camp at for free.  She even drove me over a few km's down the road to check the place out.  Muchas gracias!

Definitely a special way to end my time in Mexico.  Sunrise.

Turns out bike patches seem to work pretty good to patch the holes in my tent that have started accumulating

Last meal in Mexico, torta.  After 6 months, finally getting into another country.

Funny the whole way down from Cozumel, I never once saw a sign for Belize, only for the city Chetumal (which is directly next to Belize).  It wasn't until I was right next to the border that I saw a sign.

Paying my exit fee.  Left Mexico on day 179 of 180 in my visa.  If I was a day later, I would have been fined $1500 pesos. 

Muy bien

When customs noticed I had this, they said I couldn't take it, so of course instead of throwing it out, I chowed down

Very exciting, just after entering Belize

Lots of sugar cane

The legendary Toyota Hilux diesel.  I heard of these a long time ago, but it wasn't until entering Belize that I started seeing them (among lots of other types of diesels), as well as through Central America

The other time I saw a double rainbow was a little more than a year ago in Alaska.

First night camping in Belize, on a farm of sugar cane, bananas, and corn

A lot of the land is very well maintained in Belize, they really make use of the lawn mower I noticed.

Break in the shade at Carribean tire, nice folks, gave me water and coffee.

The roads are terrible in Belize, mostly in the North.  Just very rocky and rough, not good for cycling.  Makes for some slow going.

Nice local guys, curious about my trip, and bought me a beer. Thanks!

He may not look like it, but Slim has a real friendly demeanor and a broad smile.

These two were too funny.  They saw me riding, and started yelling out to me and ran across the road to talk to me.  They wanted to get pictures with me too...

I have never seen such an awesomely constructed fence.  Just beyond, I saw a man standing in front of his pick up truck, who seemed to be really excited seeing me pedaling, motioning with his arms and a big grin on his face... I had to stop and talk with him.

Ray and his son, avid cyclists and compete regularly in the big races in Central America

A turbo diesel For Ranger, four door... I have been frothing at all the different mid-size diesel trucks that I keep seeing

Belize City

View from my room

Staying at a "Guest house", cheap, get my own room and share a bathroom

View from the back, with the "swinging" bridge in the distance

Curried chick and rice, good Belizean dish

Bread pudding

Getting on the ferry to Caye Caulker island.  Thank you Caye Caulker Water Taxi for the discount!

Bike is so much lighter without a few things

Camping in front of the hostel

"The split", a divide in the island that was created when a massive hurricane swept through.  Now it's a great place to go for a swim.

They spray insecticide for the mosquitoes, reminded me of what I heard it was like in the U.S. a long time ago.  Nasty

Belikin, the Belizean beer.  They make a real good stout.  First one I've had in a long time.

One of the guys at the hostel caught some fish and lobster.  He offered me some, and on one was having any... I was happy to indulge.

Going diving at the "Blue Hole", waiting for the boat to pick us up.

Everyone frantically stowing gear before we pass the reef and motor through the surf

Thank you Big Fish Diving for the discount on my dive!

Pounding waves, the boat was pitching up and down...  There were a few of us feeling sick in no time, and I knew the best place was just to sit at the back of the boat.

Passing the first Atoll, calm clear waters, more surf to pass after another reef

I had never seen reef passes or atolls such as these, out in the middle of the ocean.  My eyes were scanning for surfable waves.

Amazing to think that some people live out here, hours from the mainland.  You can't exactly walk around the corner to get some eggs or milk.

The sick crew

The Blue Hole.  What an incredible dive.

One of only two openings in the reef to enter or exit the blue hole

Lunch on the island

Almost 130ft, definitely the deepest dive I've ever done

After three dives, heavy surf to pass through on a long boat ride - the aftermath

The captain was all serious all day

Young Scottsman Colin, also staying at the same hostel and that I dove with

Ah the island life

Aftermath of when a dog tried to climb onto my tent in the middle of the night

Motor stalled taking the ferry back to the mainland.  He's whacking the starter trying to get it to turn over.

So close to the city, but still so far.

With only one motor, we limped our way to the harbor, then this boat towed us in the rest of the way

Bumping our way against the stuff in the harbor

And other boats...

Apparently the only one of it's kind left in the world, the swinging bridge in Belize City is something to see, especially when they try to move it, like here.  With the hurricane approaching fast, only a couple days out, they're trying to open the bridge to let the sailboats move toward safer water.

They use the tractor, after unlocking the bridge, to pull the bridge a bit, then use some of the local strong men to finish turning it. 

Apparently it's rare that they move it, quite a crowd showed up to watch

They only got it this far.  Some locals said they don't maintain well enough, and isn't turned very often, so it's fairly rusted. (I was curious how the guys turning it in the middle would get off if they were successful, I guess just jump on a boat below?)

Nice people at the Guesthouse, Smokin Balam

They gave me a bunch of oranges when I mentioned I had been feeling sick.  I woke up with a sore throat the day before diving on Caye Caulker, and would feel sick off and on for the following weeks.  I probably contracted mononucleosis, and had to ride numerous times not feeling well.

Racing out of the city, and away from the incoming hurricane

I asked about evacuation locations for people from the island.  I didn't want to camp and take any chances with a hurricane approaching.  A very nice fellow directed me to the local community building where I could stay the night.

One of the guys that works at the place invited me over to socialize with some of the local guys

They gave me a plate of some homemade Belizean food, jonny cakes, stewed beef and local avocados

Really nice guys, this gentleman's wife made me the delicious meal

After a bit of some Belizean rum, and some punta (type of music in Belize) he couldn't help but start dancing

As always, the local people always worry about me, and said I would be safer staying at the constable's house.  Thanks Franco!

The avocados are massive, and really different here

One of the bridges that my friends had mentioned would be flooded over if they had sufficient rains from the hurricane.  Turned out the hurricane moved North, and was a calm night, and following day

Hand powered cable ferry across the river, near the border of Guatemala

Bye Belize, thanks for the great memories

A wash for vehicles, I've seen this, and people washing vehicles by hand at some border crossings.  Maybe for insects, I don't know.

Customs of Guatemala

A lot of the border crossings are defined by a river crossing

Camping at Radio Mopan

Julian always working hard

My new friends in Melchor

I mentioned to Julian that I misplaced my cup (I found it) he gave me this one.  Even when I tried to give this back to him when I found my cup, he wouldn't take it back.  Worth the weight.

Extremely rare actual Maya dagger, with the point fully intact.  They said this is valued somewhere around $15,000 USD, I don't know, but I was careful not to drop it.

La familia de Radio Mopan, buena gente.  Muchisimas gracias por todo. 

After four days off, back on the road, feeling a bit better.  Quiet road which was nice, but after hearing about two microbuses that were robbed just within the past week on this road, my eyes and ears were open.

After a day of riding, going for a refreshing swim in the lake

Look closely, you can see my tent to the right, camping lakeside

The island of Flores.  It's small, and there's a bridge that goes to it, still interesting to see.

Diesel microbus, like the ones that were robbed.  This one took me to Tikal to see the ruins.

Lots of military and police after the robberies

Wild turkey

My friends from the microbus, we ende up walking the park together.  I don't remember any of their names.  The girl on the right is from Japan, speaks some English and Japanese of course.  The guy on the left is Italian, speaks some spanish, some french, and basically no english.  The guy in the red shirt is French, and doesn't speak any english, and virtually no spanish.  So if the guy in the red wanted to tell the girl something, he would tell the italian guy in french, who would tell me in spanish, then I would tell her in english.  Interesting...

Ceiba

Tikal, Guatemala

Warm smiles and beautiful clothing

Walking through the jungle, hearing howler monkeys

Toucans

A lot of areas walking on the type of stone they made the ruins from

San Benito

Lots of motorcycles in Central America

...and lots of rain (it's that time of year...)

Plants are real green through from the rain

So much now, people just sit and stare

Even in the morning, curious what the crazy foreign cyclist is up to

Massive dirt airport

Sugarcane juice

And the machine to make it.  The guy made this contraption

Raw cane, ready for juicing

I prefer the dogs when they're like this, not running and barking trying to bite me and my stuff

Friends in a small village that I camped near late one day

Strange animals I've never seen before, alive and dead

Rio Dulce and Guatemala's largest lake, Izabel.  Everyone, including the military stopped to enjoy the view

Lunch with Narcos, or whomever is carrying around oozis and other guns

Been a while since I've had such a nice place to camp at by myself

Charging my ipod during a snack break

Ahhh if only diesels like this existed up north, all the domestic companies in the States would go out of business

Get some serious thunderstorms, basically on a daily basis

Tu lo sabes!

Bad roads and uphill makes for a long day

When I asked to camp on their grass, they let me stay in their empty house

Tire bulge since the border of Belize/Guatemala, looked like it was getting worse

So frustrating riding on roads like this

and nearly getting run over by police and other drivers

What I have to work with, these are parked trucks, always lots either side of the border

Taking a day off again, feeling under the weather

Nice folks at the place

My new love, pupusas, food of El Salvador, beans, cheese, and plenty of sauce

Yeah, that snake can kill you

Culprit for the bulge in the tire, that ended up cutting the tube

Now I'm sporting my spare, with knobbies, ready for offroad

More pupusas

Arriving late in Santa Ana, needed to get groceries, only had a short time to get out of town.  I met Miguel at the gas station, asked him about camping somewhere, he mentioned a park near his house, but ended up just camping on his front lawn

Camping in a neighborhood, that's a first

Super helpful guy, I still had quetzales I needed to change (should have at the border), in the morning he took me to downtown to find someone to change it.  Gracias amigo!

Climbing up the hill to get to Sonsonate.  Bad idea loading up with groceries, started feeling pain in my knee again

Looking back towards Santa Ana

Mizata

More pupusas...

When I asked about who had made the paintings, I guess it was the guy's nephew, who died in the surf a few years back.

Yucca.  Delicious, tastes like potatoes

The biggest live spider I have ever seen.  I stopped my bike on the side of the road to take a break on a hill, then look up and see this

Yep that's a boogie board

Max, the Irishman, and Sammy, the Salvadoreña, she lived in Ireland and that's where they met

Outside shower

Punta Roca, La Libertad, El Salvador

Driving around San Salvador with Andre

Bolas de Fuego de Nejapa

Very intense, and very dangerous.  More than once, the fiery balls went astray and landed in the crowd

Marco and Andre

Barbeque

Going with Andre to surf Punta Roca

Andre took photos of me, thanks bud!

Getting a beer after

He's got some 30 year old rum we tried, wow smooth

Drink of El Salvador, Chaparro

A bed and a TV, the good life

Good El Salvadorian coffee

Andre's mom gave me a bunch of goodies for the road: coffee, creamer, tea...

A tasty healthy lunch Andre prepared

Here's some photos from a couple of the dives the day I went diving from Caye Caulker.  It was a cheap underwater camera, but nonetheless think it's worth a look:

Had a couple extra photos, was trying to show the hurricane heavy rain I was getting, but maybe you can barely tell that I'm wet.