Lastima, Otra Vez

It's amazing the variety of bad things that have happened to me on this trip, most notably in Latin America.  I understand that that is what differentiates this trip; it's not a vacation, but an adventure and there will always be downs with the ups... but come on now, haven't I dealt with enough?

A little over a week ago, I met a family in Popayan.  I was looking for a place to camp after riding all day, and the last hour had pouring rain.  After being denied at a ranch (for some reason been getting rejected to camp lots of times in Colombia), I started talking to some people who I thought were the owners.  I gave my usual shpeel about, literally, just needing some ground/dirt/grass to pitch my tent, cook some dinner, sleep, and leave the following morning.  With looks of mercy and compassion, they noticed right away that I was soaked and cold in the frigid mountain rain, and didn't hesitate to invite me to their home.

I ended up staying a couple days with them and we even spent a wonderful night and day relaxing at their ranch nearby.  Nuvia, Felipe, Jose, Stephi, Santiago, Emmanuel... such a wonderful group of people, so helpful and generous.  We had a marvelous time together, filled with lots of laughs, and a few of my stories from the road.  The two days went by quick, and I could feel the push to get back riding.

I had covered a lot of ground leaving Medellin, quick.  I was back to my old strategy of riding for at least 5-6 hours a day.  This translates into most of the day in the saddle, with quick breaks to eat something and/or stretch.  Dropping into the hot valley near Cali, I had a couple consecutive days that I did 150km.  Logging some long days posting some high numbers, always has built my confidence, and I had Ecuador in my sights.

I left Popayan early in the morning, around 830,  much earlier than I normally do, with the comforts in cities/towns: bed, shower, wifi... roof.  Always tough to get going early. From the advice of Felipe, I got going early to try and avoid a lot of the post holiday weekend traffic.  Leaving town, I was feeling real positive about getting back on the road, and not the usual sort of first day back kind of gloom (always passes).  I had a few up and downs to get through and finally reached the outskirts of the city (I was also riding the road that bypasses the city altogether, much more quiet and pleasant).

I started going down a hill, into a right hand sweeping broad curve.  As I always do, as I generate more velocity, especially over 30km/h, I move out into the lane to keep the cars from sandwiching me between them and the shoulder.  This provides ample space and time to avoid debris or holes in the road.  Not only that, but there were road signs on the shoulder indicating that there was road construction, just ahead.  As I was riding through the curve, now around 50km/h, I couldn't believe my senses when I realized a microbus (basically just diesel van) was trying to pass me.  In a blind curve, on a hill, a cyclist in the lane traveling at a very substantial speed (definitely not impeding traffic), and road construction maybe 100 meters ahead.

Before I knew it, the microbus tried to pass in the other lane, cut back into my lane, without completely passing me.  The last thing I remember, was it cutting me off and hitting my left front pannier bag.  "OH SHIT!" I thought.

In a blur, I hit the ground, slid for who knows how long.  When I initially hit, I saw stars for a moment and that kind of bright, shocking, flash of light alarming my whole body.  When I finally stopped, pain surged through my entire body and I couldn't believe that I had just crashed.  I yelled out from the intense pain, and was slightly in shock.  I was in the middle of the road, on the ground, with my bike, in a turn, on a hill, in Latin America (bad drivers!)  I knew right away that I had to get up and off the road, but couldn't right away.  The shock and pain kept me down for some amount of time, maybe 15 seconds, I don't know.

I finally got up, out of the road, and surveyed the damage:  blood and pain all over my right hand, road rash all over my left side, leg, hip, elbow, shoulder, and the kicker was obviously something wrong with my shoulder itself with intense pain and inability to move it.

The driver got out (glad didn't drive off), and came to check on me.  I was furious and in such pain, I let him have it and started yelling at him.  Asking him why he passed me in the curve, what was he thinking?  Exclaiming where I have come from by bike, and his stupid maneuver may have put an end to my aspiration! 

I was so angry because I knew right away that this may have just cost me my whole trip.  That maybe like my friend Karl, I would need surgery on my clavicle and months of recuperation, thus terminating my trip right then.  I was in disbelief that some idiot from Popayan, could very well have shattered my dream of finishing riding across the Americas.  That in one year, more than 17,000km, thousands of hours cycling, and thinking of the end goal... could be cut short.  In one single moment, it's over.

The police arrived in a short while.  They asked me repeatedly if I needed an ambulance, and I told them every time: not until my bike and gear are secured.  I also explained that my hospital attention could wait, I wanted to make the police report and give my statement on the spot.  I could hear the driver trying to say something like I swerved into him.

The first thing I thought of (cannot imagine what I would have done without them) was to call Felipe and Nuvia.  In no time at all, Felipe arrived and took my belongings in his truck, the police took my bike for the "investigation".  I went in another police vehicle to the hospital.

Expect the worst, hope for the best.  When you expect less, you get more.  With no expectations, you're less likely to be disappointed.
- my personal motto that has helped me lots

Following my personal motto, I knew that either my shoulder was either dislocated, clavicle broken, or maybe something worse.  The paramedics arrived at the scene, rinsed all of my wounds off with saline, and when the female paramedic looked at my already swollen shoulder, she explained that it probably wasn't broken or dislocated because I could move it.  I wish she hadn't said that, it gave me hope... and I started to expect something minor from what they would tell me at the hospital.

Nuvia arrived at the hospital, shortly after I did.  Together we waited the entire day, with the usual hospital crawl (something I've been through FAR too many times).  Nuvia is such a warm kind person.  She is a mother of 4, and  conveys that loving motherly comfort openly.

As we sat waiting, talking about what happened, my trip in it's entirety came under discussion.  I explained that my mom will probably go nuts when she finds out what happened.  She told me about some terrible accidents and times shes been through (she was in a car wreck, broke her leg, arm, and hip.  Had something like 8 months to get better).  She also told me about when she was practicing law, she was working in the DA's office and had some tough cases.  She elaborated how the cases were really taking a toll on her emotionally, with her family, it was obvious she had to do something.  She felt compelled to continue because she was helping people, she had a goal to fulfill.  Her family urged her to do change her situation, so she quit, and together her and Felipe run a small store in Popayan that provides agricultural products to the farmers.  She straightforwardly told me 'Miguel, sometimes you just have to know when to stop'.

I started thinking about what she told me.  She was right.  I said, 'yeah maybe it's time'.  After all, like in my other post when I posed the question, what does it take for me to stop?  I mean I don't want it to get to the point that I'm incapable of living a functional and happy life after this.  There are so many other trips and expeditions I want to do.  So many seas to sail.  So many waves to surf.  It's a very difficult question to answer.

Turns out my clavicle is broken, all the way through, but fortunately did not separate and thus does not require surgery.  I have to wear an immobilizer, that simply holds my arm to my body.  They say it's at least four weeks of healing with the immobilizer.  Plus of course the time to regain the strength in my arm as the muscles slowly atrophy.

I have lots of road rash, possibly the deepest I've ever had.  At the hospital, I had this female nurse that was clearly heartless.  She had to clean my wounds.  Instead of using a soft gauze, for example, and dabbing with some iodine or alcohol to sterilize, she used a cotton rag and scrubbed my wounds like they were the dirty kitchen sink.  As I gasped for air between painful grunts, she would occasionally pause to show me on the rag the dirt she was pulling out, and as she scrubbed would simply say 'tranquilo' like there was nothing to it.

Taking a shower the first few times, and still now even, is quite painful.  When the cold, soapy, water comes in contact with my wounds, it's like electricity through my body, in bolts of pain.  The first time taking a shower, left me standing with the water off, such searing pain I didn't want to move to make it worse or let alone even consider drying off with a towel.

A week later I'm starting to feel a little better.  The first few days, besides the obvious, I was so sore.  Slamming into the pavement so fiercely and abruptly, my back was sore between my shoulder blades and I couldn't sneeze.  The impact itself on my leg, gave me a hefty bruise around the wound and down my leg.  My neck and shoulders were so stiff.  I am so glad I was wearing my helmet, it cracked in three places and has significant scrape marks along the one side.  The impact broke off my helmet visor and mirror.

My leg wound has become infected.  The gash is inconveniently located just below my hip on my leg, so my boxers and shorts squeeze and tighten on it when I'm walking or sitting, so the scab gets pulled off and thus remains open.

Considering how fast I was going, to me it's rather reassuring that my injuries, although substantial, aren't worse.  The first couple days I started thinking.  I mean for something as terrible as this to happen, it couldn't have happened in a better place.  I have a family taking care of me, feeding me fantastic, delicious, healthy meals.  Nuvia was a practicing lawyer with tons of experience, and has been exceptionally helpful, advising on me of things I need to do (when I understand).  Hopefully just a few weeks and I can get back to trying to get through this difficult journey.  I mean when I get through with this trip, just think of what a story it would make.  After everything that's happened, than a stupid microbus takes me out, breaking a bone with road rash.  Then continuing the trip, when it's a good enough reason to call it.  This is the kind of mentality to finish a trip such as this, to endure.

Since the accident I've been really busy.  Bouncing along in pain on the local bus to downtown, with clearly worn out shocks, my broken bone screams at me "OWW, WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO ME!".  I've already gone to the district attorney's office to file a claim for damages and expenses i.e. expenses to fix my bike, equipment, cost living in Popayan while recuperating, etc.  Most everybody I've dealt with has been been quite helpful.  I'm noticeably in pain as I limp in to the buildings, with the brace on my arm.  As Nuvia put it, it's a bit of an advantage, they see me and think "pobre gringo". 

It's just another difference that I compare with the U.S.  When I talk to people here, they have a genuine look on their face when they ask me how I'm doing.  It just seems different, than for instance when I called the embassy to see what they could provide.  The girl that answered, explained in that new-age valley girl accent, that they could only provide assistance in arranging a way back to the states.  Then when she asks me if I'm ok, sounded routine and part of the protocol, not like she actually cared.  I mean the forensics MD  that did my legal health evaluation as part of the claim, at the end gave me her personal cell phone number to call if I had any questions or concerns.  Because my leg wound is now infected, she saved me a trip to the hospital and hours waiting again, and recommended a good antibiotic and treatment.

So looks like I'm going to really know Popayan.  I'm moving to a hotel in a few days because the family has people coming to stay.  As part of the claim, the company of the microbus/insurance hopefully is paying for the hotel.  Although I'll miss Nuvia's fantastic cooking, and the families fine hospitality, I feel a little relieved.  They reassured me multiple times, after the accident that I could stay with them, but they have already helped me so much and don't want burden them anymore.

Sunday I remembered there's always American Football games during the season.  So I went down to the mall and where they show games.  Of course there was some important fútbol game on, and everyone was there watching it.  I didn't even bother asking until the game was over, to see if they could put something on.  Still, after the game, they gave me the look and explained something about not being able to, oh well.  Maybe I'll try again Thanksgiving day.  Everyone will be at work, just another day for everyone here, except for the sole gringo in Popayan.

During this healing time,  I know I'm going to get lazy and out of shape.  I know it's going to be a long few weeks of recovery (hell it's already been one, long enough) where I will very surely get quite antsy.  I also know, like with the other times, significant time off of the bike makes for a hard time when I get back on.  I'm going to have one nearly useless arm in a few weeks that I will have to rehabilitate promptly.  Legs that will look at me as though I'm crazy when I ask them to drive 80 kilos of gear and steel through the Andes mountain range towards Ecuador.  Like always, I'll get back into shape, and continue if I can.  Fall off the bike, get back on and keep going.  When I get to Quito, and I will be getting there by my bike, I will provide a more thorough and detailed post with lots of pictures.  Until then, use your imagination.  Typing this up with one hand was definitely a lengthy process, but I have all the time in the world now.

For those of you up north, enjoy Thanksgiving.  Have an extra slice of apple pie for me.

In pain and anger

Puro Subida

Now I'm deep in the heart of Colombia, and loving South America so far.  I've entered the Andes, and when somebody describes the Andes as being 'mighty', they're definitely right.  I've already had some insane climbs, with hill sections and passes that never seem to cease, and are so steep that it's reminiscent of the climb from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara (barely ride-able so steep).

I had a nice time in Cartagena.  I walked around the historic part, got a haircut, tasted some Colombian food.  I got a few necessary errands done, including getting to a bike shop to get my headset checked for the 6th(?) time.  Once again it was feeling a bit sticky, and I never want to gamble with things like this on the road so I always try to make sure my bike is dialed in good before heading out into the unknown abyss (especially now without tools!).  Sure enough one of the bottom bearings had started to rust, not surprising considering how much rain pounded me and the bike through Central America.

Leaving Cartagena was a bit nasty, with the usual city riding, exhaust from diesels (and cars), terrible drivers, intense heat and humidity... you know the bit.  In no time, I was on some roads in the country enjoying the scenery, and less noise and exhaust.  Although the heat continued to take it's toll, I was enjoying more country riding.

The road was slightly hilly, but mostly flat.  Occasionally I hit small sections with the usual road-side houses, and pueblos.  I covered good ground in the first few days, even with the nasty sections of dirt/bumpy roads.  I reached the base and the beginning of the Andes.

I had checked the topo online before leaving Cartagena.  I thought that I roughly only had one pass to get up, from Valdivia.  Well it turns out, after following the river upstream in the valley, that I had a hill before getting to Validiva, and for about 6km a long steep section to get up.  I arrived late in the day in Valdivia, and when stopping to get water at a tienda, the owner gave me a worried look when I told him I was continuing and said that I should get going.  He told me several times that the next section was even more difficult than the first part (don't think it was, but definitely had short sections that were very steep).

I got sort of stuck on the hill as darkness crept in, with thick fog I knew I shouldn't continue to cycle.  Fortunately I found a grassy spot on the side of the hill to camp for the night.  I finished the hill in the morning, but then had lots of long up and down passes to get over, with another fairly long hill to get to the beautiful city of Yarumal.

I was thinking then that I was done with the hills, and that I would soon hit the flat part I saw on the topo, before the long downhill into the valley where Medellin was.  At this altitude (~2800 meters in some places) the climate was much cooler and although I had so many hills to cross, was really enjoying not sweating profusely for once (although noticeably more out of breath.  Furthermore, having not ridden for about 3 weeks in between my time in Panama and Cartagena, my legs were feeling it and were a bit sore.

I finished the long gradual climb from Yarumal, only to have another hill, then another, then another ("is it ever going to end?!?" I thought).  I couldn't believe how much I underestimated how hilly it actually was.  I finally got to the flatter portion that I saw on the map, and man was it cold up there.  After a very nice cooler evening camping, I had a more smaller hills to get over, before plunging down the cliff and into the valley where Medellin and all the suburbs are.

Arriving in the major cities, I usually head directly to the downtown area.  There I can usually find an internet cafe and figure out who and where I'm going to stay with.  In this case, the downtown area really doesn't have any coffee shops or restaurants with wifi, and when I stopped to ask some people, a taxi driver was really helpful in explaining I'd have better luck in Poblado/Envigado.

I had the usual difficult time asking for directions (people not knowing/understanding, and simply telling me to go somewhere that may or may not actually have what I'm looking for - instead of just saying "I don't know"), but finally found a mall with wifi.  Before leaving Cartagena, I had arranged to stay with a couchsurfer, Nataly and her husband Andrew.

After a bit of city traffic, I located their beautiful apartment overlooking Envigado.  We stowed my bike and gear, and I had the righteous luxurious feeling of having a shower.  After we had a nice dinner with friends.

Andrew is Czech and Nataly Colombian.  The two of them are so incredibly warm, welcoming, and nice.  The kind of people that make me feel good to be around.  It was amazing timing when I arrived, because the following day they left to go on vacation.  Instead of kicking me out to find a place, they let me stay in their empty apartment (sharing their flat downstairs with 3 other guys that are also really great).

They have a bike mechanic friend that has a shop down the street, Mauricio.  Him, his gf, and a few friends, we all went out for Halloween and had a great time in Envigado.  It was my first Halloween out of the country, and I was curious to see if there was much of a difference (not really, there were some different costumes I hadn't seen before).

Mauricio has also been really helpful.  He took me one day in his car to try and track down some things I was hoping to find in the city: new headphones, cover for my ipod, socks, etc.  He's also been helping me tune up my bike, after having seen some rough days through Mexico and Central America with loads and loads of rain, along with long stretches of dirt roads.  Trying to tune it up real good for more abuse I'm sure to face through the high altitudes of the Andes.  (I had planned since Guadalajara to tune up my bike again when I arrived in Colombia, funny to actually realize that I'm here now what seemed so far away before).  One evening we went out with a few others for an evening ride up the gigantic mountain to the East of Medellin (don't I have enough cycling to do? - worth the view though I kept telling myself).  After getting the bike all fixed up, he tried to not charge me for any of the work, but I had to give him something considering how much he helped me.  He basically said in Spanish how he wants to support me in my journey.

One thing that always strikes me, is how a lot of times people feel compelled to help me, like hearing my trip inspires them and they want to be able to help me somehow.  A great example is Nataly and Andrew, who when I posted something on couchsurfing, sent me a message inviting me to stay with them.  How awesome.

I've spent a few days here in the city, longer than I planned (as usual).  I've really enjoyed Medellin.  I would say that Medellin/Envigado is probably one of my favorite Latin cities that I've seen on the trip, besides Guadalajara.  While Nataly and Andrew are out of town, there are still two other roomates, Thomas and Juan, downstairs who I've had a good time hanging out with.  The people I meet also helps change the perspective too of course, but the city is very clean, feels real safe, there are mountains nearby to cycle and hike... and the women...

When people told me there are beautiful women in Colombia, what they meant to say was Medellin.  Up until Medellin I really wasn't struck by the beauty of the women, but definitely in Medellin... gorgeous females abound.

With my bike all finished, and regreased trailer tire bearings, I'm ready to get back riding again.  Looking forward to the smooth riding bike that awaits me (to help getting up all the hills I still have to cover!).  I heard there is a street party tonight, one of the friends of the guys living here in the flat.  Will be nice to see, say the goodbye to everyone, and get going once again.  Looking forward to getting through Colombia now  and seeing more countries, with more cultural differences.

Some Thoughts While Riding:

Another rule to add to the list for "rules for cycle travlers":
 Be confident on the roads, most notably in Latin America.  Don't let the stupid drivers bully you off the road.  You have a right to be on the road (more so than cars since cyclists are non-polluting).  People need to learn to "share the road".

Getting into the mountains and further South away from the tropics, I'm entering a different climate once again.  There are certain things that, besides the heat and humidity, I will miss about the tropics:  The sound of geckos making their calls in the evenings in the thatched roof houses.  The brilliantly colored warm oceans to cool off in, surfing and swimming.  Fire flies lighting up the grass or woods at night, blinking away like something from the movie 'Avatar'.

Colombia, as with all the other Latin Countries I've passed through, have interesting subtle differences.  Here I get called señor a lot more (did I suddenly age a lot more, or are people just more respectful here?).  Lots of times you hear people call others gentleman (caballeros), like it's more respectful here.  Also, people say plata a lot (silver) to describe money in general, or even to describe the worth of something.  Something very particular to Colombia is "a la orden".  People say this all the time, like welcoming me into a store, or using it instead of saying denada (you're welcome).  Colombians also seem to say "tranquilo" a lot more.  This is used to describe when something is mellow, but can also be used to tell someone to calm down.  I thought people were telling me to calm down sometimes, but I think they are just telling me when something is "all good", in a way.

Talking on skype to people in latitudes further North, I noticed that it's dark where I'm at, much sooner.  Reminds me of when I was in Alaska and Northern Canada when the light and time was different.  It's different now though, where as before I took a plane and had an instant difference.  Now when I notice this, it feels different knowing that I have biked the entire distance (yes I know I took a boat from Panama, but actually returned to a more Northerly latitude and had to cycle back South).

I realized I didn't even mention why I had to take a boat from Panama.  The Darien Gap is the one place between the two continents that isn't connected by a road.  It's the one place in my entire trip that I had to take some alternate form of transportation: either a boat or a plane.  The Gap consists of thick, dense, jungle that allegedly is filled with bandits, narcos, and is over all a very difficult place to traverse.

The recent stretch, I had less people pestering me in camp, but people continue to stare of course.  One definite cultural difference that is annoying but still kind of funny.  For instance, sometimes people approach me at camp as I pack up, or unpack.  They might say hi, but then just stand there in absolute silence, staring at me and my things as I move about packing/unpacking/cooking... so strange how different some things are.

Latins are such noisy people in general (definitely not all).  With noisy vehicles, blaring music, and people yelling each other, it's no surprise why lots of people are hard of hearing.  Lots of times people approach me and start peppering me with questions when I'm barely off my bike (always annoying, like give me a second to rest!), sometimes they are nearly yelling at me asking questions, makes me want to say "hey man, I'm right here, I can here you fine!"

Staying at the hostel in Cartagena, I slept so good.  After taking a cold shower each night, sleeping in a bed with a pillow, and even having a fan - it's amazing how much better I sleep.  Things like this that I miss, that I will really enjoy when the trip is done.

I had probably one of the healthiest evenings of my life, as seen in the picture with my veggie stew.  After a long day riding, I had some good earl grey tea with the stew.  For dessert had some whey protein with chondroitin sulfate, then flossed and brushed my teeth, then a multivitamin.  Feels good trying to make sure that my body is getting all the necessary nutrients in this very demanding lifestyle I'm living.

Throughout the trip, I have times of feeling unmotivated.  I consider this only natural.  People of course ask me regularly if I get lonely.  Of course I do, I have moments of missing people I know, familiar faces, familiar places, or just having the comfort and routine of day-to-day life somewhere.  Usually, it's after I've had a few days of rest, and become acquainted to the town or city that I have stayed in, but depends and is sometimes random. I frequently use the analogy of a tree.  Once I stop somewhere, my roots begin to slowly grow, and the longer I stay, the longer they grow.  When I try to leave, I have to pull the roots out, and if it's been a long time, the more difficult it is to do.  Normally once I'm on the road, after a few days of covering some good distance, I get motivated again.

There is a duality on the trip for me.  To staying motivated and covering as much ground as I can, but then on the flipside, taking sufficient time to see the sights and enjoy the trip.  Usually people are trying to convince me that I need to see some sight along the way.  I often have to skip a lot of them.  If I saw all the things along the way, I wouldn't be able to cover much ground, and I'd probably be out of money before the trip is through.  Also, it's nice to leave some things and some places to see for return trips.

Since it seems I have gotten rid of the parasites in my system, I'm real paranoid about my water these days.  I've been only buying filtered water from the plastic bags they sell it in.  Going to spend a lot more, but I've quit drinking soda again, and figure the bit I'm going to spend on quality water is much more important.

It's amazing how much better I feel riding in the cool weather.  Even with enormous mountains to cross, I am so much happier and seem to have more energy.

Like in Central America, there are so many motorcycles in Colombia.  I arrived in a town called Caucasia, there were mopeds, and motorcycles all over the place.  Along one stretch, there were 4-5 different moto shops.

Funny lots of times how I think that I may have passed a turnoff or a town - almost never the case.  Always the thing about cycle traveling, makes one appreciate distances, almost always farther than I think.  Just not there yet.

There's something about doing longer days, basically doing around 100km in a day.  I almost always forget where I camped the night previous, and sometimes when asked, I simply can't remember.  Seems so far away, lot of the time I have to sit down and think for a moment where exactly I was.  Covering that kind of ground in a day, the landscape is almost guaranteed to change.  If I'm feeling unmotivated, or looking at the map and feeling overwhelmed with how far I have to go, I always remind myself "you're going to get somewhere quick, doing 100km a day".

Using terminology from the corporate world I detest, I have begun to use 'weight management'. 
I continually and scrupulously check things throughout my gear for their value, and determine their worth based on their weight.  I'm now critical of every gram on my bike, even carrying the minimum amount of water to cycle for a couple of hours, and food for only a couple days. (thus stopping more frequently to get more).

It's funny having my two German cycling friends Karl and Felix ahead of me, for a long time now.  Fortunately they don't tell me a lot about what I'm going to see, but usually just the big thing I could expect.  In Mexico it was, "Devin, the Mexican coast is very hilly", in South America it was "this is high altitude cycling"

It's so satisfying having some colder days.  After a long day of riding, with a cold evening, to find a nice camp spot and put on warm clothes to cook dinner.  Then actually using my sleeping bag to stay warm - I sleep so much more comfortably than sweating in my tent trying to get to sleep.  Reminds me of my time in latitudes much further North.  Besides the couple days I had in the mountains of Chiapas, Latin America to me is just hot tropical cycling.  I'm looking forward to seeing the next bit of cooler weather through Ecuador and Peru (although surely the next, and likely last, difficult part of the trip).

One of my favorite times of the day (when I have a good camp spot with nobody around), is after dinner, and I've had my fill.  I'll just sit there in the dark, enjoying the silence, drifting off into thought.  The one time during the day where I don't feel rushed, I can sit and relax.  Sometimes the stars are out, and I just let my mind wander for a while.

As planned, I've been kicking into high gear.  I got to Medellin in a week.  Everyone was surprised that I did it in a week, with all the mountains and passes to cross (motivated to arrive in time for Halloween).  Since I've cut some serious weight (can't imagine having ridden the mountains I just crossed if I still had the same weight...), going to start doing longer stretches, and longer days, to make sure I can see this trip through.  Trying to finish this thing health and funds permitting.

After all, there are other things I want to do in my life besides cycle travel.

Still, I picture the end nearing fast, I'm trying to remind myself to enjoy the moments while they last.  Before long, the trip will be over, and I'll be looking back longingly at the absolute freedom and other things I enjoy about cycle traveling.

After all, there are other things I want to do in my life besides cycle travel.

Kilometers ridden so far: 17, 513

Media

Gotta try the beer of every country

No safer place for my ride than right next to my bed

Usually nastiness leaving Cartagena, loads of traffic, exhaust, and trash

Then a short while later, on the open road, enjoying the calm and scenery

Then things like this start for km's at a time

Lots of great campsites recently

Tasty break, courtesy of mom, Thanks!

Thinking about having Thanksgiving early...

Being Irish, I have this inherent love of anything potatoe.  Roadside snack, fried potatoe with some kind of curry.  I had 3 of them, how delicious

More stretches of open road, and open country side.  Real nice.

More traveling cyclists, they're going North, from Patagonia.  Shared some of their past for lunch. Thanks!

Keeping my sailing stoke alive.  FIND YOUR PARADISE

Following the river upstream, and into the Andes I go

Natural spring fed pipes all along the road.  How nice to have on a long hill.  I stopped at this one, stripped to my bike shorts and immersed myself in the refreshing water.  Instantly cooled off nicely.

Line of cars and trucks, for a few km's.  How cool to slowly cycle past them up the hill.

Reason for the problem.  Instead of getting a tow truck, they're just fixing the motor in the road.  Looks like putting a new cylinder head in, wow quite the road-side job.

Late into the night the cars were all still parked on the hill, waiting for the jam to clear up.  By morning everyone was gone.

After climbing up into the clouds, there was nothing but fog.  Waking up in the morning to this view.  Nice chilly moist morning - great for riding.

Still long ways up, with switch backs

Getting so high up, in and out of clouds

Already on a hill, I had sections like this to get up.  May not look like it, but really steep.

What I thought was the top.

Feeling the altitude, out of breath but with cleaner cooler fresh air.  Much happier.

Lightweight instant meal.  Indian dish, another treat from my mom

10 degrees C and raining, cold morning, thought I was back in Canada or Alaska.  First time using my shoe covers that I made from some booties I got from my uncle Don.

SUCH great riding weather.

Andres.  Nice local cyclist, we stopped had a break.

Amazing view looking down into the valley towards Medellin

Riding the freeway in the valley towards the city - yuck

Medellin, Antioquia, Colombia

Nataly and Andrew, awesome couchsurfers that gave me their apartment to use while they went out of town on vacation.  Muchas gracias amigos!

Helping make some tasty arepas

The view from the flat, with Poblado in the distance and Envigado in the foreground

Driving up the mountain to take Andrew and Nataly to the airport.  About a 45 min drive from the city, to the only place where they could have enough space for an airstrip, so mountainous everywhere else.

Halloween 2012.  Envigado, Antioquia, Colombia

May not look like much, but this is the site where "la catedral" was, the prison that Pablo Escobar was locked up for a short time.

Long climb up, and bit cold at the top.  View of Medellin

The night time cycling crew

Hiro and Mauricio making my bike suaaaave.  Regreased the hubs, new chain and casette, new cables, housings, grips.  All cleaned up, proper tune up, rides like a dream

I forgot to put in some videos in my last post, so there's a few extra: