Puro Subida

Now I'm deep in the heart of Colombia, and loving South America so far.  I've entered the Andes, and when somebody describes the Andes as being 'mighty', they're definitely right.  I've already had some insane climbs, with hill sections and passes that never seem to cease, and are so steep that it's reminiscent of the climb from Puerto Vallarta to Guadalajara (barely ride-able so steep).

I had a nice time in Cartagena.  I walked around the historic part, got a haircut, tasted some Colombian food.  I got a few necessary errands done, including getting to a bike shop to get my headset checked for the 6th(?) time.  Once again it was feeling a bit sticky, and I never want to gamble with things like this on the road so I always try to make sure my bike is dialed in good before heading out into the unknown abyss (especially now without tools!).  Sure enough one of the bottom bearings had started to rust, not surprising considering how much rain pounded me and the bike through Central America.

Leaving Cartagena was a bit nasty, with the usual city riding, exhaust from diesels (and cars), terrible drivers, intense heat and humidity... you know the bit.  In no time, I was on some roads in the country enjoying the scenery, and less noise and exhaust.  Although the heat continued to take it's toll, I was enjoying more country riding.

The road was slightly hilly, but mostly flat.  Occasionally I hit small sections with the usual road-side houses, and pueblos.  I covered good ground in the first few days, even with the nasty sections of dirt/bumpy roads.  I reached the base and the beginning of the Andes.

I had checked the topo online before leaving Cartagena.  I thought that I roughly only had one pass to get up, from Valdivia.  Well it turns out, after following the river upstream in the valley, that I had a hill before getting to Validiva, and for about 6km a long steep section to get up.  I arrived late in the day in Valdivia, and when stopping to get water at a tienda, the owner gave me a worried look when I told him I was continuing and said that I should get going.  He told me several times that the next section was even more difficult than the first part (don't think it was, but definitely had short sections that were very steep).

I got sort of stuck on the hill as darkness crept in, with thick fog I knew I shouldn't continue to cycle.  Fortunately I found a grassy spot on the side of the hill to camp for the night.  I finished the hill in the morning, but then had lots of long up and down passes to get over, with another fairly long hill to get to the beautiful city of Yarumal.

I was thinking then that I was done with the hills, and that I would soon hit the flat part I saw on the topo, before the long downhill into the valley where Medellin was.  At this altitude (~2800 meters in some places) the climate was much cooler and although I had so many hills to cross, was really enjoying not sweating profusely for once (although noticeably more out of breath.  Furthermore, having not ridden for about 3 weeks in between my time in Panama and Cartagena, my legs were feeling it and were a bit sore.

I finished the long gradual climb from Yarumal, only to have another hill, then another, then another ("is it ever going to end?!?" I thought).  I couldn't believe how much I underestimated how hilly it actually was.  I finally got to the flatter portion that I saw on the map, and man was it cold up there.  After a very nice cooler evening camping, I had a more smaller hills to get over, before plunging down the cliff and into the valley where Medellin and all the suburbs are.

Arriving in the major cities, I usually head directly to the downtown area.  There I can usually find an internet cafe and figure out who and where I'm going to stay with.  In this case, the downtown area really doesn't have any coffee shops or restaurants with wifi, and when I stopped to ask some people, a taxi driver was really helpful in explaining I'd have better luck in Poblado/Envigado.

I had the usual difficult time asking for directions (people not knowing/understanding, and simply telling me to go somewhere that may or may not actually have what I'm looking for - instead of just saying "I don't know"), but finally found a mall with wifi.  Before leaving Cartagena, I had arranged to stay with a couchsurfer, Nataly and her husband Andrew.

After a bit of city traffic, I located their beautiful apartment overlooking Envigado.  We stowed my bike and gear, and I had the righteous luxurious feeling of having a shower.  After we had a nice dinner with friends.

Andrew is Czech and Nataly Colombian.  The two of them are so incredibly warm, welcoming, and nice.  The kind of people that make me feel good to be around.  It was amazing timing when I arrived, because the following day they left to go on vacation.  Instead of kicking me out to find a place, they let me stay in their empty apartment (sharing their flat downstairs with 3 other guys that are also really great).

They have a bike mechanic friend that has a shop down the street, Mauricio.  Him, his gf, and a few friends, we all went out for Halloween and had a great time in Envigado.  It was my first Halloween out of the country, and I was curious to see if there was much of a difference (not really, there were some different costumes I hadn't seen before).

Mauricio has also been really helpful.  He took me one day in his car to try and track down some things I was hoping to find in the city: new headphones, cover for my ipod, socks, etc.  He's also been helping me tune up my bike, after having seen some rough days through Mexico and Central America with loads and loads of rain, along with long stretches of dirt roads.  Trying to tune it up real good for more abuse I'm sure to face through the high altitudes of the Andes.  (I had planned since Guadalajara to tune up my bike again when I arrived in Colombia, funny to actually realize that I'm here now what seemed so far away before).  One evening we went out with a few others for an evening ride up the gigantic mountain to the East of Medellin (don't I have enough cycling to do? - worth the view though I kept telling myself).  After getting the bike all fixed up, he tried to not charge me for any of the work, but I had to give him something considering how much he helped me.  He basically said in Spanish how he wants to support me in my journey.

One thing that always strikes me, is how a lot of times people feel compelled to help me, like hearing my trip inspires them and they want to be able to help me somehow.  A great example is Nataly and Andrew, who when I posted something on couchsurfing, sent me a message inviting me to stay with them.  How awesome.

I've spent a few days here in the city, longer than I planned (as usual).  I've really enjoyed Medellin.  I would say that Medellin/Envigado is probably one of my favorite Latin cities that I've seen on the trip, besides Guadalajara.  While Nataly and Andrew are out of town, there are still two other roomates, Thomas and Juan, downstairs who I've had a good time hanging out with.  The people I meet also helps change the perspective too of course, but the city is very clean, feels real safe, there are mountains nearby to cycle and hike... and the women...

When people told me there are beautiful women in Colombia, what they meant to say was Medellin.  Up until Medellin I really wasn't struck by the beauty of the women, but definitely in Medellin... gorgeous females abound.

With my bike all finished, and regreased trailer tire bearings, I'm ready to get back riding again.  Looking forward to the smooth riding bike that awaits me (to help getting up all the hills I still have to cover!).  I heard there is a street party tonight, one of the friends of the guys living here in the flat.  Will be nice to see, say the goodbye to everyone, and get going once again.  Looking forward to getting through Colombia now  and seeing more countries, with more cultural differences.

Some Thoughts While Riding:

Another rule to add to the list for "rules for cycle travlers":
 Be confident on the roads, most notably in Latin America.  Don't let the stupid drivers bully you off the road.  You have a right to be on the road (more so than cars since cyclists are non-polluting).  People need to learn to "share the road".

Getting into the mountains and further South away from the tropics, I'm entering a different climate once again.  There are certain things that, besides the heat and humidity, I will miss about the tropics:  The sound of geckos making their calls in the evenings in the thatched roof houses.  The brilliantly colored warm oceans to cool off in, surfing and swimming.  Fire flies lighting up the grass or woods at night, blinking away like something from the movie 'Avatar'.

Colombia, as with all the other Latin Countries I've passed through, have interesting subtle differences.  Here I get called señor a lot more (did I suddenly age a lot more, or are people just more respectful here?).  Lots of times you hear people call others gentleman (caballeros), like it's more respectful here.  Also, people say plata a lot (silver) to describe money in general, or even to describe the worth of something.  Something very particular to Colombia is "a la orden".  People say this all the time, like welcoming me into a store, or using it instead of saying denada (you're welcome).  Colombians also seem to say "tranquilo" a lot more.  This is used to describe when something is mellow, but can also be used to tell someone to calm down.  I thought people were telling me to calm down sometimes, but I think they are just telling me when something is "all good", in a way.

Talking on skype to people in latitudes further North, I noticed that it's dark where I'm at, much sooner.  Reminds me of when I was in Alaska and Northern Canada when the light and time was different.  It's different now though, where as before I took a plane and had an instant difference.  Now when I notice this, it feels different knowing that I have biked the entire distance (yes I know I took a boat from Panama, but actually returned to a more Northerly latitude and had to cycle back South).

I realized I didn't even mention why I had to take a boat from Panama.  The Darien Gap is the one place between the two continents that isn't connected by a road.  It's the one place in my entire trip that I had to take some alternate form of transportation: either a boat or a plane.  The Gap consists of thick, dense, jungle that allegedly is filled with bandits, narcos, and is over all a very difficult place to traverse.

The recent stretch, I had less people pestering me in camp, but people continue to stare of course.  One definite cultural difference that is annoying but still kind of funny.  For instance, sometimes people approach me at camp as I pack up, or unpack.  They might say hi, but then just stand there in absolute silence, staring at me and my things as I move about packing/unpacking/cooking... so strange how different some things are.

Latins are such noisy people in general (definitely not all).  With noisy vehicles, blaring music, and people yelling each other, it's no surprise why lots of people are hard of hearing.  Lots of times people approach me and start peppering me with questions when I'm barely off my bike (always annoying, like give me a second to rest!), sometimes they are nearly yelling at me asking questions, makes me want to say "hey man, I'm right here, I can here you fine!"

Staying at the hostel in Cartagena, I slept so good.  After taking a cold shower each night, sleeping in a bed with a pillow, and even having a fan - it's amazing how much better I sleep.  Things like this that I miss, that I will really enjoy when the trip is done.

I had probably one of the healthiest evenings of my life, as seen in the picture with my veggie stew.  After a long day riding, I had some good earl grey tea with the stew.  For dessert had some whey protein with chondroitin sulfate, then flossed and brushed my teeth, then a multivitamin.  Feels good trying to make sure that my body is getting all the necessary nutrients in this very demanding lifestyle I'm living.

Throughout the trip, I have times of feeling unmotivated.  I consider this only natural.  People of course ask me regularly if I get lonely.  Of course I do, I have moments of missing people I know, familiar faces, familiar places, or just having the comfort and routine of day-to-day life somewhere.  Usually, it's after I've had a few days of rest, and become acquainted to the town or city that I have stayed in, but depends and is sometimes random. I frequently use the analogy of a tree.  Once I stop somewhere, my roots begin to slowly grow, and the longer I stay, the longer they grow.  When I try to leave, I have to pull the roots out, and if it's been a long time, the more difficult it is to do.  Normally once I'm on the road, after a few days of covering some good distance, I get motivated again.

There is a duality on the trip for me.  To staying motivated and covering as much ground as I can, but then on the flipside, taking sufficient time to see the sights and enjoy the trip.  Usually people are trying to convince me that I need to see some sight along the way.  I often have to skip a lot of them.  If I saw all the things along the way, I wouldn't be able to cover much ground, and I'd probably be out of money before the trip is through.  Also, it's nice to leave some things and some places to see for return trips.

Since it seems I have gotten rid of the parasites in my system, I'm real paranoid about my water these days.  I've been only buying filtered water from the plastic bags they sell it in.  Going to spend a lot more, but I've quit drinking soda again, and figure the bit I'm going to spend on quality water is much more important.

It's amazing how much better I feel riding in the cool weather.  Even with enormous mountains to cross, I am so much happier and seem to have more energy.

Like in Central America, there are so many motorcycles in Colombia.  I arrived in a town called Caucasia, there were mopeds, and motorcycles all over the place.  Along one stretch, there were 4-5 different moto shops.

Funny lots of times how I think that I may have passed a turnoff or a town - almost never the case.  Always the thing about cycle traveling, makes one appreciate distances, almost always farther than I think.  Just not there yet.

There's something about doing longer days, basically doing around 100km in a day.  I almost always forget where I camped the night previous, and sometimes when asked, I simply can't remember.  Seems so far away, lot of the time I have to sit down and think for a moment where exactly I was.  Covering that kind of ground in a day, the landscape is almost guaranteed to change.  If I'm feeling unmotivated, or looking at the map and feeling overwhelmed with how far I have to go, I always remind myself "you're going to get somewhere quick, doing 100km a day".

Using terminology from the corporate world I detest, I have begun to use 'weight management'. 
I continually and scrupulously check things throughout my gear for their value, and determine their worth based on their weight.  I'm now critical of every gram on my bike, even carrying the minimum amount of water to cycle for a couple of hours, and food for only a couple days. (thus stopping more frequently to get more).

It's funny having my two German cycling friends Karl and Felix ahead of me, for a long time now.  Fortunately they don't tell me a lot about what I'm going to see, but usually just the big thing I could expect.  In Mexico it was, "Devin, the Mexican coast is very hilly", in South America it was "this is high altitude cycling"

It's so satisfying having some colder days.  After a long day of riding, with a cold evening, to find a nice camp spot and put on warm clothes to cook dinner.  Then actually using my sleeping bag to stay warm - I sleep so much more comfortably than sweating in my tent trying to get to sleep.  Reminds me of my time in latitudes much further North.  Besides the couple days I had in the mountains of Chiapas, Latin America to me is just hot tropical cycling.  I'm looking forward to seeing the next bit of cooler weather through Ecuador and Peru (although surely the next, and likely last, difficult part of the trip).

One of my favorite times of the day (when I have a good camp spot with nobody around), is after dinner, and I've had my fill.  I'll just sit there in the dark, enjoying the silence, drifting off into thought.  The one time during the day where I don't feel rushed, I can sit and relax.  Sometimes the stars are out, and I just let my mind wander for a while.

As planned, I've been kicking into high gear.  I got to Medellin in a week.  Everyone was surprised that I did it in a week, with all the mountains and passes to cross (motivated to arrive in time for Halloween).  Since I've cut some serious weight (can't imagine having ridden the mountains I just crossed if I still had the same weight...), going to start doing longer stretches, and longer days, to make sure I can see this trip through.  Trying to finish this thing health and funds permitting.

After all, there are other things I want to do in my life besides cycle travel.

Still, I picture the end nearing fast, I'm trying to remind myself to enjoy the moments while they last.  Before long, the trip will be over, and I'll be looking back longingly at the absolute freedom and other things I enjoy about cycle traveling.

After all, there are other things I want to do in my life besides cycle travel.

Kilometers ridden so far: 17, 513