Greetings From Alaska!

I am well into my trip now, and loving every bit of it! I have already started the biking portion, and made it to Anchorage from Seward. Let me tell you, it's definitely a little tough getting back into the grind of bike touring and it's been kicking my ass back into shape.

The days leading up to my departure were frantic, as predicted, as I scrambled to get rid of remaining things and move my stuff from my mom's basement, to my uncle's warehouse. I had a small, last minute going away party at my step-dad's a few days before leaving, then an even more last minute and very impromptu bon voyage the night before I left at my Mom's...which I was super late too ha.

I made great use of my nine hour layover in Seattle and took the light-rail to downtown. FYI, if you decline the x-ray body scanners, they almost punish you with he frisk they make you do in front of everyone (like a lot of places these days, they don't like people asking questions...). Anyway, got into Anchorage that night, my Dad picked me up. We hung out for a few days and had a great time flying a float plane to a local lake where we fished. We both caught pike, and I took one back and grilled it up - yum.

Pops dropped me off around the 9th in Seward at couchsurfer Victoria's. I had a great time staying wih her for two nights, biking around town, hiking out to a local beach for a great view of Godwin glacier. Victoria is from Duluth,MN, and has a hearty midwest accent. She is super motivated, loves to climb... The morning I was leaving, she was up at something like 5 to go for a run before her 12 hour shift at the hospital - basically putting me to shame lol.

The main reason for me traveling to Seward was to see Orcas (I've wanted to see them in their natural setting for as long as I can remember). So I splurged and went on a 6 hour boat cruise before leaving town. We saw Orcas and so much more. It was staggering how much wildlife thrives off the coast in the frigid but nutrient rich waters. One thing I learned that stood out to me as really interesting, was how humpback whales actually fast as they migrate to Hawaii and while they are there rearing their young, only to return to the Alaskan waters to feast.

Everyone kept telling me how great "Exit" glacier is, so I made a small detour (isn't that what a trip like this is all about? After all, my panniers are called "Detours"). So I biked from Seward, up to the glacier, camped for a night. The following day when I hiked to the glacier, I returned to find a note on my bike from a fellow cycle tourist that invited me to a potluck in town. After consulting with a couple of the ranger girls, it seemed like a good idea to bike back to town and check it out. When I arrived, I was offered a beer and some delicious home-cooked food. It was great to meet "Sapphire" and her roommates, play some guitar and just chat. Everyone there stressed how hiking to the TOP of the glacier is worth the brilliant views, so I biked back up there the next day. After a hearty steep climb, through thicket, alders, and snow fields, I reached the top and over looked the Harding Icefield. The view there was magnificent and well worth the effort. I sat there for awhile, alone, enjoying the peacefulness. I was drinking fresh glacial melt I had collected on the way up the trail, and realized that even the air I was breathing was probably clean - it was an interesting feeling of purity. Finally people started straggling to the top, so I finally decided to start making my way back down (I don't know if I've ever NOT wanted to leave a hiking location that much, if that makes sense). Right when I gathered my things and started back, I looked across to the other hill and saw a small herd of mountain goats making there way towards me. I hurriedly and excitedly grabbed my camera, dropped my stuff, and ran to a good vantage point to get some pictures. The animals were remarkably calm, and are no doubt accustomed to the hundreds of hikers they probably have to deal with. Others saw what I was tripping over rocks to take pictures of, and joined the mayhem as we watched them meander their way right next to us, to the next bluff. Seeing them made me think about what a rugged and harsh lifestyle it must be surviving up there, especially in the winter.

The goats departed out of sight on the other side of the cliff, and I made my exit. Going down the trail was a tad more difficult then going up; I was in sandals with no tread, so I was slipping a fair amount. An 8 mile round trip and 3,500ft elevation change, I started to feel like when I used to go backpacking with my Dad and Uncles in the Sierra Nevada in California - my legs were rubber. I had to be careful not to roll an ankle and put a damper in the trip! As soon as I hit the bottom, I saw two black bear cubs, but no mom. The first passed hurriedly by, but the second paused in the trail and we stared at each other for a few seconds. It's curious glance pierced my soul, I went from a feeling of timidness, to feeling humbled. Only around a couple corners and I encountered some more hikers that couldn't believe I had just seen some bears and they hadn't heard or seen a thing.

I camped that night at the gorgeous (FREE!) campsites next to the glacier and enjoyed a fire late into the evening with some other campers. The following day finally put me back in track and back to starting the bike tour officially. I would spend three days biking to Anchorage. I encountered some headwinds, moderate hills, and the challenge of getting my legs (and butt!) readjusted to long days of riding into the wind wih a heavily loaded bike. Besides the wind, the weather was fabulous: sunny, cool days.

It's nice having so much sunlight - I dont have to worry about getting up early to ride because sunset isn't until around midnight. I take my time getting up in the morning, and packing up.

I remember one day while riding, after having already done around 30 miles, my legs were sure talking to me. My legs tell me "stop aleardy, you've done enough miles today. You're not in a rush after all...". My mind knows better, and explains to my legs how I've had plenty of rest, food, and water, and that if I don't seriously start making a good pace, I won't even be out of Alaska before Fall comes. So I struggle on. I look down, 6 miles an hour, look around trying to enjoy the sights. "Am I actually moving?", 6 miles an hour. The road ahead of me is straight and flat. Cars scream past me, kicking up dirt and debris. Diesel trucks (not semis who are usually, interestingly, curtious and make an effort to give me room) blast past me, and seem to accelerate while passing me - trying to emit more exhaust, and generally appear bothered by my small footprint on the road.

I had a couple excellent free-camp sites that included one, lake-side, at Moose pass and another near Turnagain pass over looking a lush green valley. Riding east on the flats of the Cook inlet brought the most ferocious headwind yet but I knew on the other side it would pay off...and it did. Sailing my way to Anchorage, and after a long 60 mile+ day, brought me to town and a much needed cheese burger and coffee.

I met a delightful man, John, who is interested in getting into bike touring. I helped answer some questions he had, and he gave me some tips and ideas in riding through Canada and Alaska since he has driven through there many times. He lived in Japan for about four years and it's fascinating to see a white, middle-aged man that is originally from Anchorage, have the same quirky mannerisms that a lot of Japanese do - very entertaining.

I finally left the coffee shop after talking to couchsurfer Eric on the phone, and with some easy directions, found his home. I have been staying with him and his two roommates, Andy and Josh, who are all exceptionally laid back gentleman. Eric is such an easy going guy, that I hit it off with immediately. I could see myself being good friends wih him if we lived in the same city. He's an aspiring artist with many talents, ranging from painting detailed portraits to elaborate pottery. He's a born-Alaskan but definitely seems (and feels apparently) out of place and looks forward to some place different.

On a random, rainy, evening that I chose to ride to the grocery store. I ended up meeting a nice young woman, Enzina, that turns out to be the curator of art for a local restaurant. I was excited to think about the prospect of introducing Eric to her, and hopefully help him get his artwork more visibility. The following day was her birthday, so she invited me to attend a gathering of her and some of her friends at a local pub. I brought Eric, and we all had a fabulous time having some laughs on the patio in the late Alaskan sun.

I am already having the time of my life on this trip. I'm making priceless memories, meeting amazing people, all stuff that I doubt I will ever forget. This spontaneous, dynamic, lifestyle, is highly addicting for me. An addiction that will surely cause me serious withdrawal... I can only look back and thank myself for making the commitment, and leap into making this voyage happen. I can only speculate what will happen next, good or bad, but I will try to keep my eyes, ears, and arms open for the next experience to come my way.

I stopped by a bike shop in town to have my wheels double-checked before heading out (the next major city after Anchorage is probably Whitehorse - quite a distance away). It turns out that the mechanic that helped me build my rear wheel had probably built it too quickly or something because it wasn't right according to the mechanics up here (I did have a very small wobble in the wheel, but I noticed that some of the spokes felt more loose than they should). I left feeling relieved that I had gone there soon, and that they would check both wheels, I left the bike for a couple days. Upon my return, they fixed both wheels and instead of 60 bucks they quoted me, only charged me 25. Thank you REI Anchorage (think it helps that I'm riding an REI frame across two continents ;) ).

It looks like I should be all packed and have my provisions to allow for a departure on Thursday. I'll continue to stay at Eric's, and finish some last minute details. I'm still going to upload some pictures hopefully tomorrow so stay tuned!

Some random thoughts while riding:

I am more than half way done with the book 1984, by George Orwell. It's astonishing to me that a person writing a book in the forties could have so much insight and forethought about life more than half a century away. I see so many parallels in today's society (America). It makes me think about how so many people live in a constant, perpetual, state of fear. Many people live with so much fear, it amazes me they step foot out of their homes. Ever since 9/11, people have relinquished most of their rights as Americans, for a false sense of security, when in fact people are still terrified something else might happen.

My trip has only just begun, but one morning while breaking camp, I had a moment that I asked myself suddenly "what are you doing?". I think it was a rational part of mind trying to make sense of this journey, and what I expect to gain out of something like this.

I seldomly get asked what I think about while riding, but I do nonetheless. It's funny how I made such an effort to get away from home, but while traveling (in particular biking) I think of it and the familiar faces I know from there.

I think of my friend Miles a lot. Maybe I made a huge mistake in not inviting him on this trip. That if only he could have experienced some of what I am,it could have changed his outlook on life, and maybe helped deal with whatever was eating him up inside.