To Do Something Extraordinary, Requires Something Extraordinary

A magician is someone who is skilled at producing an illusion. I would be a magician if I told you that bicycle touring is all pleasantries; it's not.  It has been an interesting transition into the world of solo touring.  There is a dualtiy I face at times; the lonely grind of the loud, wet, road... and then the ultimate freedom of deciding what I want to do/see/stay. I do know that this is likely the most amazing conglomeration of experiences I have encountered. I am baffled at times of the things that happen (in a good way mostly), and the sheer timing of them.

I have faced some difficult times while riding on this journey.  Some hills, I feel like I have no energy, and that I'm going nowhere.  I have to remind myself to look around, take in the beauty, enjoy the scenery.  I frequently use a slogan commonly used in surfing: "enjoy the ride", and try to think of that when times get tough.  My knee has been holding up fine, hurts at times, but so do a lot of things.  I have started to get minor saddle sores, just from where parts of my but and leg rub on the seat, but aren't too bad.  My left tricep has been real sore the past few days, and will tighten up while riding.  My hands also tend to go numb, and my left one will hurt in particular.  I have noticed that getting on the bike in the morning, and riding the first 10-15 miles is possibility the worst part.  It seems I have to warm up and wake up, after that, I can usually ride fine for many miles, but usually get very hungry and have to stop and chow down.  I remember one day biking about 60 miles and still feeling like I could keep going, but I have a decent camp spot, and it was getting close to dark anyway.

I have met so many amazing people on this trip, and continue to on a daily basis.  Most of these people I will probably never see again, but their impact on me has been profound. 

I'm listing each day with a quick synopsis from my journal, and the corresponding daily mileage with the total:

Wednesday, 9/15/10
Miles today: 16
Total: 123

Left couchsurfer Ryan's at 7am and went to the coffee shop for breakfast and to consider my options.  I wanted stay another day, so I went to the information center on the water front to find out where some hostels were.  Stopped by one and they were charging $30.  I also noticed something was up with my main crank, stopped by a bike shop and turns out my bottom bracket was loose and was going to get worse (if I had kept riding, eventually would have come apart and stripped the threads on the frame).  So for 10 bucks, they regreased it and tightened it up.  I got a hold of couchsurfer Graham and stopped by his place to drop off my panniers and gear (he said i could stay there that night) and groceries i had just picked up.

I went out around victoria on the bike in the rain sightseeing.  Saw some cool floatplanes, a heliport, some people trying to pull a fishing boat out of the water, walked along the jetty.  Came back to Graham's around 8, when he was getting back from work.  We hung out at his place, drank some beer, ate some food, and had a great time. 

Thursday, 9/16/10
Miles today: 34
Total: 157

Got up with Graham in the morning and organized my stuff, as well as putting certain things in bags to prepare for rain.  I took the black ball ferry from victoria to port  angeles at 1030, got there around noon.  The fog was soooo thick, we had to creep in slowly to port, and listen for the horn from the pier to direct us.  Started riding, after only around 5 miles it started riding, and I was quickly soaked.  The ride was dull, and I was wet, but I was still feeling alright since I was just starting the ride.  Stopped to get some elk jerky form a guy and he mentioned he saw 2 german girls touring the day before, cool!  I got to lake crescent and activated the sign that alerts drivers to bikers presence, since the shoulder is nearly nonexistant along the stretch of the lake.  I was reenergized with the lake in view, and captivated with the scenery. 

At one point, I rounded a corner and spooked a young deer.  With nowhere to go to on the other side of the guard rail (it was a drop off) the deer ran alongside me on the other side of the rail.  We were side-by-side for a few seconds running/riding, just staring at each other, it was a very awesome feeling being so close.  Got to Fairholm campground at the west end of the lake, with just about an hour of sunlight to spare.  Made camp, a little dinner and quickly went to bed after a long cold, wet first day.

Friday, 9/17/10
Miles today: 48
Total: 205

Left the camp in the morning and had a serious hill right after leaving camp on the 101.  Didn't stop, but was pretty winded after finally reaching the top.  Long gradual descent after that.  Lots of logging trucks (same as the day before) that are deafening as they drive by, and deflect lots of wind that throws me around a tad.  The sun came out as I reached forks, and I dried out a bit on a table and had lunch.  The ranger at the visitor center told me there was a free campground called cottonwood on the way to ruby beach.  I turned off when I saw the sign, and went for 2.5 miles (more like 3) as indicated, but didn't see the campground.  I stopped a van full of a hispanic family that spoke no english.  From what I understood, the camp was another 10 miles down.  After they left, I noticed a bit of an overgrown, gravel road.  Went up it about 40 meters and realized that the cars couldn't see me from there.  So I made camp, just in time as the rain was starting again.  I thought I was going to be dry, but the tent was dripping water inside.  For about the next hour and a half, I went back outside, getting soaked, trying to keep the water from pooling on top of the tent. I finally got the dripping to a minimum and went to bed.

Saturday, 9/18/10
Miles today: 51
Total: 256

Left the cottonwood free-camp spot I had, stopped raining as I packed.  No logging trucks today, welcome relief, with less traffic altogether.  Got my first glimps of the beach at ruby beach.  Stopped at the ranger station in kalaloch (pronounced clay-lock).  Gorged some food and found out that the Quinualt lake campground is $20, so I decided to free-camp again.  Encountered a terrible thing called chip seal as I left Kalaloch and a grueling hill.  Chip seal is smooth pavement that has been layered with small, hard, tar chips that cause my bike to vibrate, and result in my having to go slower. 

The hill was very long and gradual.  I remember picturing friends and family along the side of the road and seeing them cheering me on to get up the hill.  Difficult climb, but the sun was out...until I neared Quinault lake and it started dumping rain.  I stopped by a house to inquire about the remaining distance to the lake/campground, then just asked if I could pitch my tent on their land.  They agreed, and the next thing I know, I'm taking a hot shower in their downstairs garage area, having a hot, home cooked meal, and drying my clothes and tent in the garage.

I slept in the garage, out of the pouring rain.  Woke to coffee and pastry.  Rodney and Phyllis Miller were such gracious, kind, generous people. When I was leaving, they refused to take any of my money, and wanted me to let them know when I got home safe.  I was speechless with how hospitable they were with a stranger that quite literally, showed up at their doorstep. (thankyou again if you are reading this) 

I am so grateful to all the people that have helped me along the way.  There have been so many, that have done small things and large, but all contributed to doing what they could for me.

Sunday, 9/19/10
Miles today: 55
Total:311

One day, for no particular reason...I felt like going biking.  Was thinking of forest gump while riding, and the song came into my head "you can go your on way..."

Got up from the Miller's house, it was pouring rain as I said goodbye and left.  I remember feeling so recharged after leaving there, and ready to tackle a long day of riding.  The rain subsided after a couple miles.  I stopped at a quinault lake nature trail, and hiked the half mile loop.  It was so worth it.  I saw lush, dense, temperate rain forest.  Massive trees covered with moss, ferns galore.  Not a single piece of land was open besides the trail, everything had something growing on it.

It was raining on and off as I got back on the 101 from the lake.  Fairly boring ride with the occasional clear cut forest down to aberdeen/hoquium.  Faced a strong head wind most of the way down there, until later it softened quite a bit.  I got into town and immediately disliked it.  The town had a very strange, eerie feeling to it.  The houses are small, next to each other, lined up along the 101.  I passed a bus stop and waved at some kids...they only stared blankly back at me.  I stopped at a subway, ate, and quickly left town.  As I crossed the bridge, I saw a storm moving in, and new I was going to get wet once again (after not seeing any rain since the rain forest at quinault earlier in the day). 

The rain hit so hard, I kept looking down to make sure it wasn't hail.  It was raining so hard, I couldn't help but laugh about it.  It stopped just as quick as it started. 

I found what looked like an abandoned logging road just out of town.  Went up and checked it out, looked good, so set camp, made a quick dinner and passed out.

Monday 9/20/10
Miles today: 56
Total: 367

Packing up in the morning, I was real grumpy.  It was wet out, and as I put the bags on the bike, they were sliding off, and water was getting tossed onto me from the small tree I had the bike propped up against.  I snapped a bit and broke some branches and cussed.  Finally on the road, I was tired, unmotivated, and not liking the noisy, careless cars, along with the hills.  I hit the coast, and took a break.  A guy at the store said he had seen the 2 german touring girls like 4 hours earlier.  I was suddenlymotivated to try and catch them, I hadn't seen/talked to any touring cyclists this whole way!  I took off in an attempt to catch them. 

I passed the point and the sun came out as I did and offered a beautiful scenic view of the willapa bay.  I got into town at raymond and was looking for the library to update the blog, check emails, etc. when I saw 2 loaded touring bikes in front of a cafe.  I went in and found a father and son that were the owners.  We sat and talked for a good hour and decided to camp together and split the fee.  Kelly was the dad with his 14 year old son, Arean.  Kelly mentioned he had just seen another solo touring guy, and that he was going to the same campsite.  I stopped at the grocery store on the way out, and met 3 more touring cyclists!  These 3 were young, white, athletic canadian girls from Victoria.  They are on their way down to san diego also!

We all end up at the same hiker/biker campsite about 10 miles out of town at a place called Bruceport campground, and have an awesome time laughing and talking over a campfire.  It was the first evening that it didn't rain, and the moon was brightly shining.There was another guy camped out on the grass lawn with us.  He's walking from canada to mexico!

Tuesday 9/21/10
Miles today: 44
Total: 411

Got up to a thick fog, that I knew was going to burn off and become a beautiful day.  Kelly, Arean and I decided to ride together for the day and camp at fort Canby.  As we left, the fog lifted, and so did our spirits.  I felt euphoric for the longest time that day.  It was my first day of complete, utter sunshine on the bike and I was loving life. I could not wipe this ridiculous grin off my face, no matter how hard I tried.  This went on for nearly the first 10 miles, then some hills distracted me.  I still enjoyed the rest of the day in the sunshine as we rode, passing some very scenic stretches next to the bay.  We stopped by the grocery store, and made it to camp with a couple hours of sunlight left.  We set camp and went to the beach to enjoy the sunset and evening sun.  Made a great dinner and as we got ready for a great night of rain-free sleep, som raccoons came into camp and started rumagin through some of our stuff looking for food.  I chased them off with a frying pan, and cleaned up what little stuff there was left out, and slept great after that.

Wednesday 9/22/10
Miles today: 30
Total: 441

Kelly and Arian left for astoria, as I went to check out the light house on the bluff.  I took the tour and took some great pictures of the columbia river mouth, with another awesome, sunny day starting.  I took my time, enjoyed the sunshine as I rode the stretch to the astoria bridge, and hooted as I went downhill off the bridge into oregon, and my official, first state crossing!  I stopped by a cafe where kelly and arian were, then went off checking prices at hotels.  I found a hostel for $20 a night and decided to go with it.  I took a refreshing shower, changed and biked to a pizza place, where i spoiled myself with a milkshake, a pizza and some wings as i watched the vikings barely lose to the dolphins.  After, I biked back, locked up the bike and went to the George brewery around the corner from the hostel.  There i had one of the coffee porters, and enjoyed the atmosphere.  I got into a lively conversation with Duncan, a husky, mellow guy with a thick beard and long hair.  We immediately connected and shared some stories of things we have seen and done.  He offered some great suggestions on possible jobs in the area for when i move, as well as good seasonal work so i can travel.  We closed the place and said goodbye.

I went back to the hostel, and still hadn't seen the two other guys staying in my dorm.  I stopped by another bar, didn't see them, so I came back. They were there watching seinfeld, and greeted me with big smiles.  Yaron and amit, 2 israeli young guys, stayed up late talking about random things with me, until i finally just fell asleep from exhaustion.

Thursday 9/23/10
Miles today: REST DAY! probably about 5, went to the cafe and the library

 Came back to the hostel, and convinced the 2 guys to come do the hike with me to the lewis and clark monument at the top of the hill.  It didnt take long before we were at the top with a view of astoria, the bridge, washington, and the coast (a complete 360 view even).  The monument itself is a tall (30-40 meters), that has a winding staircase inside you climb up.  We took a few pictures from up there, enjoyed the view, until the cold wind forced us to go back down.  We stopped by a fast food place for dinner, and a pub where we played a few games of pool.

Back to riding tomorrow, deep into the Oregon coast.  I should be in crescent city in a little more than a week, which will mark the half way point!